Double Process Blonding can be a very tricky service to do sometimes.
Here are a few simple rules to help you get the best results with the least problems.
Learn & Enjoy!
#1-Plastic caps can be used when doing the original virgin bleach-out but never on lightener retouches.
Plastic caps are good for holding in the heat and helping the lightener to perform better. But the problem is when you are doing a lightener retouch. The previously lightened hair should not be allowed to touch the new fresh lightener mixture or breakage may occur, and it would be almost impossible to put on a plastic cap without this happening.
#2-Never promise someone with tinted red-brown hair or very dark natural color that she can be blonde in one service.
Hair that is naturally very dark or has been tinted a dark color (sometimes for years) will be very difficult to lighten even with several bleach-outs. In some cases, the hair will break off or disintegrate before it will become light. One way to get an idea as to what you can expect is to do a test strand. Use bleach lightener with 20-volume peroxide for 20 minutes at room temperature and see how it is lifting. If the strand hasn’t done much, don’t do the service.
#3-When doing a bleach-out, the best bleaching takes place during the first hour. After that, if necessary, remove the lightener and apply a fresh mixture.
Sometimes, when you are doing a bleach-out, it will be necessary to do more than one lightener application. Remember that, after the first hour, the lightener loses much of its strength, so you might as well mix a fresh batch and reapply where necessary.
#4-Double Process Blondes should be done every 3 to 5 weeks (NO LONGER).
A person wanting to become a Double Process Blonde must commit to coming in for regular touchups every 3 to 5 weeks depending on how fast her hair grows. Any longer than this will almost always result in gold bands on the hair because the regrowth will be too long. If one of your clients gets gold bands, she may expect you to fix it at no extra charge to her.
This issue should be discussed during the initial consultation and made clear that if she goes longer and gold bands appear, she will need to pay for the extra time and product to fix the problem.
#5-Powder bleaches with 5, 10, 15 volume peroxide will work slower than those with 20 volume. They will still lift as light and will still cause the same amount of stress and damage to the hair.
Using lower volumes of peroxide with powder lightener slows down the lightening process and, therefore, will give you better control over the product. Hopefully, by having better control, you can keep it from going too light. But many people mistakenly think that, because they are using a lower volume of developer, it will not cause any damage.
#6-When using a Demi-color as a toner, always pre-lighten the hair between a yellow and pale yellow.
Sometimes when using a peroxide type toner, the combination of the peroxide and slight ammonia in the toner will give you a slight lifting action that will help a little, if your bleach-out is still a little gold. But when using a Demi-color type toner, you will not get any lift at all, only deposit. The bleach-out must be exactly where you need it to be for the toner to take correctly.
#7-Never use a straight ash color when working on pre-lightened hair unless you desire a very drab color.
Remember that prelightened hair is going to be porous and it will grab the ash color, looking gray and drab. Therefore, if you want to use an ash toner as your finished color, always mix it with a natural color or even with a little gold tone to keep it from going too drab.
#8-Texture is more important to lift than volume of peroxide.
The texture of the hair is going to play a big role in how well and how fast the hair will bleach-out. Fine hair will always lift faster and get lighter than coarse hair.
#9-Be aware of the lighting on the hair when working on blonde hair.
Poor lighting will make even a good blonde look bad. So, therefore, you must always be aware of the lighting under which you are working. Warm lights and sunlight will make the hair look too gold; florescent lights will make the hair look green or blue. Use full spectrum lighting or a blend of many lighting conditions.
#10-Get the lightener off if the hair begins to smoke, gets hot or lightens very quickly.
These are usually indications that the hair has metallic dyes, salts or hennas. This can also be caused by mineral build up from well water or swimming pool water.
If you would like more information on how to do Amazing Double Process Blondes, read my book: Stunning Double Process Blondes.